Drangey Island & Grettislaug

Originating in ancient geological history over 700,000 years ago from subterranean volcanic eruptions, Drangey Island is a natural volcanic island site featuring sheer flat-topped basalt walls rising nearly 180 meters above the Arctic waters of Skagafjörður. For centuries prior to the 11th century, the isolated site was utilized as a rich nesting ground for sea birds, providing eggs and meat for local northern farming communities who scaled the dizzying cliffs using hemp ropes. However, scaling the sheer rock faces was extremely hazardous, resulting in scores of fatal falls attributed by medieval locals to malicious rock-dwelling demons (bjargvættir).

In the early 11th century around 1028 AD, Drangey became immortalized as the sanctuary of Grettir Ásmundarson, Iceland's most famous saga outlaw. Banished from society for twenty years, Grettir fled to Drangey accompanied by his brother Illugi and a thrall named Glaumur. Grettir survived on the island for three years, hunting sea fowl and swimming over seven kilometers across the freezing ocean to the mainland at Reykjanes to collect fire coals, bathing afterward in the natural geothermal pool now known as Grettislaug.

In 1031 AD, Grettir met a tragic end on Drangey after a sorceress named Þorbjörg Þorbjarnardóttir carved dark runes onto a tree root, blest it with blood, and floated it out to the island. When Grettir chopped the cursed wood, his axe slipped, inflicting an infected leg wound. Weakened by gangrene and sorcery, Grettir and Illugi were overwhelmed and killed by enemy chieftain Þorbjörn Öngull. Today, Drangey is preserved as a protected nature reserve and historic saga site accessible via guided boat excursions from Sauðárkrókur.

The primary legend of Drangey Island is inextricably tied to the curse of Glámr (Glam), a terrifying undead revenant slain by Grettir in the valley of Forsæludalur. Before his head was severed, Glámr cursed Grettir with dark vision, bad fortune, and eternal fear of the dark. Saga lore holds that Glámr's curse followed Grettir to Drangey, where ghostly specters, phantom footsteps, and glowing demonic eyes plagued his night vigil on the sheer cliffs, driving him to madness whenever he was left in darkness.

Another famous legend involves Saint Guðmundur Arason the Good, Bishop of Hólar in the early 13th century. Disturbed by the frequent deaths of egg-collectors falling from Drangey's cliffs, Bishop Guðmundur was rowed to the island to bless the rock faces with holy water and expel the demonic cliff-spirits. As he was lowered down the cliff face in a basket, a winged demon emerged from a dark cave and severed his ropes with a sharp sword, crying out: 'Even evil must have somewhere to live!'.

Recognizing the demon's claim, Bishop Guðmundur spared one sheer section of the cliff face, now named 'Heiðnabjarg' (Pagan Cliff). Local tradition dictates that no egg-collector or climber must ever attempt to harvest eggs or climb Pagan Cliff, as any human entering the demon's designated sanctuary is instantly struck down by rockfalls or spectral hands.

Boat captains, fishermen, and adventurous travelers embarking on guided tours of Drangey report distinct paranormal activity along the island's steep approaches and clifftops. The most common sighting is the apparition of a giant, dark figure standing atop the highest sea stack, believed by locals to be the haunting phantom of Grettir the Strong gazing out over Skagafjörður.

Visitors climbing the steep wooden stairs up the cliff face frequently report hearing disembodied whispers, low guttering roars, and the sound of heavy rocks crashing into the sea when no landslide has occurred. Fishermen navigating near Pagan Cliff at night describe seeing eerie green flames flickering along the sheer rock walls and hearing mournful cries echoing across the sea waves.

At the mainland base near Grettislaug hot spring, bathers soaking in the geothermal waters late at night have reported seeing a pale, dripping figure walking out of the ocean surf toward the pool. Electronics carried on boat tours, including digital cameras and VHF marine radios, often suffer sudden signal dropouts and unexplainable battery drains near the base of Drangey's sea stacks.

Drangey Island is a natural geological fortress defined by flat-topped table mountain topography surrounded by near-vertical palagonite basalt cliffs. The island stretches approximately 800 meters long and 200 meters wide, flanked at its southern tip by two dramatic sea stacks known as Kerling (The Old Woman) and Karl (The Old Man).

The only physical access to the summit plateau is via a steep, narrow trail carved into the cliff face, equipped in modern times with wooden stairs, safety ropes, and steel chains anchored into the rock. The summit plateau consists of grassy turf meadows, bird-nesting burrows, and low stone cairns marking ancient shelter sites.

On the mainland shore at Reykjanestá sits Grettislaug, a pair of circular geothermal soaking pools constructed from fieldstones and natural basalt masonry. The surrounding shore layout includes a turf-roofed visitor hut, gravel footpaths, and a small timber jetty where tour boats dock.

Drangey Island is located in the center of Skagafjörður bay in northern Iceland, approximately 15 kilometers north of Sauðárkrókur. Access to the island is strictly regulated and only available via guided boat tours departing from the small harbor at Reykjanestá near Grettislaug between late May and mid-August.

Boat excursions take roughly 3.5 to 4 hours, including the sea crossing, a guided hike up the cliff stairs to the summit, and bird watching. Due to the physical demands of climbing steep cliff ladders, the island tour requires good physical fitness and is not recommended for individuals with severe vertigo or mobility limitations.

Grettislaug hot spring on the mainland is open year-round for geothermal bathing for a small fee, featuring modest changing rooms and shower facilities. Pre-booking boat tours in advance is strongly recommended due to high demand and weather sensitivity.

Drangey Island's formidable and terrifying reputation stems from its dramatic blend of precipitous volcanic geography, tragic saga outlaw history, and deep-seated cliff demon folklore. The legend of Grettir the Strong, the curse of the undead revenant Glámr, and the untouched demon sanctuary of Pagan Cliff combine to make Drangey an enduring icon of dark Viking lore, ancient sorcery, and wilderness paranormal adventure in northern Iceland.